Hemstitch and embroidery seam



Aug. 1, 1933. A. H. DE VOE HEMSTITCH AND EMBROIDERY SEAM Filed April 23,1932 earner or ies Singer Manufacturing Ccinpany, Elizaheth,

N. 37., a @orporation of New .Fersey Application April 23, 1932. SerialNo. 607,058

'7 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in seams for sewed articles andhas for an object to enhance the ornam ntal efiect of embroidery,heinstitching, pleat-edging and like scams.

A further object of the invention is to provide hemstitch and picot-edgeseams according to which the stitching thread in an improved manner,ties back and eiiectively holds the body-inaterial threads which aredeflected by a planet during the tion of the heinstitch seam, and whichstitching thread, or threads, at the same time more ornamentally anddistinctly defines the character of the seam.

The foregoing and other objects and advantages in view, together withthe improved seams whereby the same are attained, will best heunderstood from the following description of cmbodiments thereofillustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which:

Figs. 1 and 2 represent top and bottom plan views of one form or" theimproved henistitch or openwork seains produced in a section of abodymaterial, the stitching being effected by a single thread. 3 is ahottozn view oi a prod not according to which the thread-loop con--catenations are or" a different character at opposite sides or" a row ofhemstitch-seain apertures. Fig. 4 represents, in perspective, adjacentsingleand double-thread chain-stitch seams, il-

lustrated somewhat diagrammatically. Fig. 5

represents a perspective View of a single-thread, ornamentaledgefinishing constituting an improved picot-edging.

The novel seams illustrated in the accompanying drawing have beenproduced by a two-needle hemstitching machine disclosed in my patentapplication Serial No. 605,407, filed April 15, 1932. In hemstitching, abody-material 1 is provided by a piercer with a row or succession ofapertures 2 separated by intervening and substantially parallelcross-bars 3 of the body-material. The size and shape of thebody-material apertures 2 vary with the type of piercer which may beemployed in the hemstitching machine, and the width or" the cross-bars 3is of course influenced by the extent of feed of the work as well as thethreadtension, as will be readily understood.

According to the present invention, the body-- material threads aresecured to define the openings 2 by two rows of stitches of such acharacter as to serve to bind the cross-bars 3 and to more effectivelytie back the body-material threads at opposite sides of the openings 2,the stitches being of an elastic character and therei'ore also adaptedto stretch with the body-material.

Referring more particularly toFigs. land 2 of the drawing, each of thesethree-stitch figures includes a cross-bar embracing stitch 4 extendincin the general direction of the seam line, from one to a succeedingpiercer-aperture 2, a lateral stitch 5 out of the seam line and anchoredin the body-material opposite'to, the last entered piercer-aperture, anda return stitch'6 to said last entered piercer-aperture. These stitchesare formed by initially passing a loop of thread 7 through apiercer-aperture 2, detaining and spreading said loop below thebody-material, ad-

vancing the body-material and passing another 'hread-loop 8 through thenext piercer-aperture and through the thread-loop 7. While thebodymaterial remains stationary, a loop of thread 9 is then passedtherethrough at a point adjacent to the piercer-aperture in which theloop 8 is disposed, said loop 8 being spread below the bodymaterial toreceive the loop 9. A succeeding three-stitch figure is then formedby"passing another loop 7 through the piercer-aperture entered bythethread-loop 8, and by'enchaining said newly formed loop 7 with thepreviously formed loop 9. While the thread-loop 9 enters the loop 8 at apoint in vertical alinement with the direction of penetration of thebody-material by said loop 9, the tightening of the stitches draws theloop 8 along the limbs of the loop 9 in the general direction of theadjacent pierceraperture 2. The resulting disposition of the enchainedthread-loops outlines the hemstitch seam in a novel and highlyornamental manner, and at the same time serves to very effectively tieback. the body-material threads between successive cross-bars 3.

By combining the single-thread chain-stitch seam, before described, witha two-thread chainstitch seam as illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4 of thedrawing, there is produced a contrasting effect enhancing the ornamentalappearance of the embroidery seam and particularly in hemstitching. Thetwo-thread seam likewise constitutes repetitions of three-stitchfigures, comprising cross-bar embracing stitches 10 disposed in thegeneral direction of the seam line and substantially parallel with thestitches, 4 of the previously described seam, said stitches 10 beingconnected by lateral stitches 11 out of the seam line and return stitches12' to the seam line, the stitches 11 extending from the side of thestitches 10 in a direction opposite to the direction of lateralextension of the stitches 5 from the stitches 4.

The two-thread chain-stitches are formed by initially passing a loop ofneedle-thread 13 through a piercer-aperture 2 and into a loop 14 oflooper-thread below the work, after which a loop 15 of looper-thread ispassed through the needle-thread loop 13 below the loop 14. Aiter thework has been advanced to the next pierceraperture 2, a loop 16 ofneedle-thread is passed therethrough and through the looper-loop l5, and

a succeeding loop 17 of the lo'oper-thread is passed through said loop16. While the bodymaterial remains stationary, a loop 18 of needlethreadis then passed therethrough at a point adjacent to the last enteredpiercer-aperture. The needle-loop 18 enters the looper-loop l7 andanother looper-thread loop 14 is then passed through the'loop 18 belowthe looper-loop 17. A succeeding three-stitch figure is thereafterstarted'by passing another loop 13 through the last enteredpiercer-aperture and enchaining therewith the looper-thread aspreviously described.'

-. The .picot-edge seam illustrated in Fig. 5 may be formed by severingthe cross-bars between the two seam lines of Fig. 1, so thatsingle-thread chain-stitches 4 embrace tufts 20 of body-materialthreads, the specially formed chain-stitches .producing a highlyornamental edge-finishing effect, particularly when using stitchingthread of a color contrasting from that of the body-material. Apicot-edge seam of this character is elastic and is therefore betteradapted for finishing the edges of elastic body-materials.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis:-

1. A body-material provided with a row of hemstitch-seam apertures withintervening cross-bars which-are individually bound by the concatenatedloops of a single-thread chain-stitch seam anchored in the body-materialadjacent each of said apertures.

2. A body-material provided with a row of hemstitch seam apertures withintervening crossbars secured in spaced relation by a single-threadchain-stitch seam comprising cross-bar embracing enchained loops of asingle thread connected by pairs of loops of said thread enchained atthe sides of the hemstitch-seam apertures between said cross-bars andanchored in the bodymaterial.

3. A body-material provided with a row of hemstitch-seam apertures withintervening cross-bars which are individually bound at opposite sides ofsaid cross-bars by single-thread chain-stitch seams.

4. A body-material provided with a row of hemstitch-seam apertures withintervening crossbars which are individually bound at one side of saidapertures by the concatenated loops of a two-thread chain-stitch seam,and are individually bound at the opposite sides of said apertures bythe concatenated loops of a single-thread chain-stitch seam.

' 5. A body-material provided with adjacent rows of singleand two-threadchain-stitch seams, each of which comprises stitches disposed in thegeneral direction of the seam line connected by a lateral stitch out ofand a return stitch into said seam line, said lateral and returnstitches being disposed at opposite sides of the respective seams.

6. A body-material provided with an ornamental edge-finishing seamcomprising concatenated loops of a single thread anchored in thebodymaterial margin and embracing spaced tufts of thebody-materialprojecting beyond said margin.

7. An overedge seam for a body-material constituted' by repetitions of athree-stitch figure of enchained single-thread loops, two successivestitches of said figure being anchored in the bodymaterial and embracingthe margin of said bodymaterial, with the other stitch of said figuredisposed beyond said margin substantially parallel therewith andembracing a tuft of said bodymaterial projecting beyond its margin.

ALBERT H. DE VOE.

